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| "We find that cycling through a country allows us to move at the speed we choose and to meet local people." - Margo |
Taking a one-year leave of absence, TRIUMF scientist Dr. Chris Oram decided to go on a bike ride with his wife, Margo, after acting as Chairman of the Collaboration Board for the ATLAS experiment at CERN, Europe's Laboratory for Particle Physics. This was no ordinary stroll through the park! The pair cycled over 17,000km in 325 days, traveling through 22 countries spanning across Asia and Europe and were limited to the luxury they could afford to carry on their bikes.
Chris carried a GPS to help navigate and collect data about the trip. On an average day, the couple cycled distances between 70 and 110km, setting out as the sun rose, breaking for lunch, and continuing until a mere two hours before sunset. Crucially, the GPS served as an alarm to notify the couple two hours before sunset each day; only then would consideration be given to where the night would be spent - either at a hotel, homestay or if conditions were right, set up camp outdoors.
Spoken as an experienced project manager Chris clarified, "the planning took a year - not 13 months, not 11 months, exactly one year." Planning the trip neatly into three phases and calculating several milestones, there were critical goals that were necessary to meet. Specifically, by June they had to be in Tajikistan due to the validity period of their visas. If they had not made it across the deserts of Western China by then, it meant they were stuck in the sandstorms, which jeopardized the rest of the trip. Margo wrote, "we're in our mid-fifties, and although reasonably active we're far from being triathletes. The success of our ventures has depended on careful planning and organization."
Although months were spent arranging routes, scheduling visas, and acquiring appropriate gear, the pair tenaciously managed to overcome unforeseen challenges, such as a sudden closure to foreigners in a Tibetan area of Sichuan province in China, a "mislaid" passport in Turkey, and a corrupt military presence in Tajikistan which offered very little in terms of security and protection for the travelers.
Chris outlined the three phases of the trip.
The first phase began with a one-way flight to Bangkok, Thailand in January 2009. As they rode through China, Chris observed the booming economy. As scheduled, the second phase took place in May to July through Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Uzbekistan, and Turkmenistan. The stone tundra and green valleys offered space to set up camp at night, though this was not always the safest option. One afternoon, the couple encountered a terrible sandstorm in Tajikistan. Identifying only one shelter up the road and the next kilometers away, Chris described the gratitude he felt as a woman stepped out of her home and offered hospitality as she waved them in. "The riskier the situation and the poorer people are, the kinder they are" Chris explained.
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| This woman posed for her picture to be taken, taking a break from milking the animals seen behind her. |
Astounded by the kindness and generosity of the diverse people encountered along the way, Chris fondly recalled one instance from the trip. Upon entering the home of the woman who graciously invited them in for the night, Chris noticed she was wearing hand-woven clothing and that there was no furniture but many beautifully, handcrafted rugs. Spotting Chris' camera, the woman stopped milking a yak, came forward, and posed in a very self-assured and assertive position, astonishing the couple (see photo). After having her photo taken, the host generously offered the couple yak's milk - which Chris reminisced as much sweeter than the camel's milk they sampled back in China.
Not all nights were spent under such good conditions. With no place to stay and several unanticipated military checkpoints run by young boys armed with guns and hand grenades nearby, Chris and Margo found a vacant shepherds' hut with broken windows and no doors. To avoid attracting attention and stirring suspicion, they lay quietly for the evening and skipped making dinner in case the soldiers noticed their light source and mistook them for outlaws. With luck on their side, Chris and Margo quietly scurried back onto the road as soon as the sun rose, camouflaged out of sight from the soldiers as a farmer herded his cattle out to the fields.
As they cycled through the changing landscapes, Chris also described the change in culture and the effects of history as they emerged right before his eyes. The greatest difference was experienced over August and September as soon as they crossed the Caspian Sea, leaving from the coast of Turkmenistan, entering into Azerbaijan then Georgia and Turkey. From politics to women's presence in society to food, the change in culture was astonishing. Evaluating the entire journey, Chris carefully notes "the place that takes food most seriously is France, with China following very close". The third phase commenced in October and November and was spent in Greece, Albania, Montenegro, Croatia, Bosnia, Slovenia, Italy, Austria, Germany, Switzerland, and finally France.
"The best thing about returning home" Chris adds, "is that you don't have to pack everything up each day!" For Chris and Margo, that will not be enough to keep them from considering another trip in the future. So what is next for the courageous couple? There are rumors of a trip mountain biking from the Canadian Rockies, down the continental divide to Mexico or perhaps cycling from Alaska down to the southernmost tip of South America.
We congratulate Chris and Margo on their journey and are pleased and relieved to have the pair back home in good health and humor! More photographs, videos, statistics, and detailed accounts from Chris and Margo's adventures can be found online: http://candmwanderings.blogspot.com/
Since returning to TRIUMF, Chris is co-heading the Advanced Rare IsotopE Laboratory endeavor (ARIEL) together with Dr. Lia Merminga. The ARIEL project (including technical elements such as e-linac and target station, associated labour, and the civil construction) totals nearly $100 million and is a major component to TRIUMF's Five-Year Plan. Welcome back!
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| Afghan Mountains dominate the view on the final day down to Lyangar, Tajikistan. |
-- Melissa M. Baluk, Communications Assistant